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Soakaway Installations

Percolation tested, properly sized crate soakaways for roofs, extensions, driveways and yards, across Surrey, Sussex, Kent, Hampshire and London.

34 years
in drainage
Survey and
levels first
Built to Building
Regulations
Dig, install
and reinstate
Tankers and jetters
for aftercare

The basics

What does a soakaway do?

A soakaway takes rainwater from your roof, drive or yard and lets it soak slowly back into the ground, instead of sending it to a sewer or letting it pool and flood.

Once it’s in, a soakaway needs occasional care, so see soakaway maintenance. For sewage rather than rainwater, a septic tank or treatment plant discharges to a drainage field instead.

We do this work across Surrey, West Sussex, East Sussex, Kent, Hampshire and London, with tankers and engineers in each area most days.

The Building Regulations put soakaways first: rainwater should go to a soakaway or other infiltration system where the ground allows, and only to a watercourse or sewer if it doesn’t. So if you’re building an extension or a new drive, a soakaway is often what Building Control will expect to see.

Modern soakaways use plastic crates wrapped in a geotextile membrane. They’re mostly empty space, so they hold far more water than the old rubble-filled pits, and they’re much less likely to silt up.

Step by step

How a crate soakaway is installed

Step through a typical installation, or let it play. Tap a step to jump to it.

How a crate soakaway is installedAn eight-step animation of a soakaway installation: a percolation test, digging the hole at least 5 metres from the house, lining it with geotextile membrane, laying soakaway crates, wrapping them, connecting the downpipe through a silt trap, backfilling, and rainwater filling the crates and soaking into the ground. At least 5 m from buildingsTest pitGeotextile membraneSoakaway cratesWrapped all roundSilt trapWater soaks away into the ground

We dig a test pit, fill it with water and time how fast it drains. This percolation test tells us how big the soakaway needs to be.

Infiltration test calculator

How well does your ground drain?

Soakaways are designed using an infiltration test, usually to BRE Digest 365. A trial pit is dug to the depth the soakaway will be, filled with water, and timed as it drains. It’s filled and timed three times, and the slowest result is used.

The result is the soil’s infiltration rate. Sandy and chalky ground drains quickly; heavy clay can be so slow that a soakaway won’t work at all, and something else is needed.

Enter your pit’s size and the time the water took to fall from 75% to 25% full to see the rate.

Fill the test pit, then time how long the water takes to fall from 75% to 25% of its depth. Repeat three times and use the slowest result.

-Infiltration rate (m/s)
-Millimetres per hour

A guide only. It uses the BRE Digest 365 formula: the volume drained between 75% and 25% full, divided by the pit’s wetted area at half depth and the time taken. A soakaway is then sized from this rate, the area it drains and local rainfall data, which we do as part of the design.

When you need one

When do you need a soakaway?

Any time new roof or paved area is added and the water has to go somewhere. Building Control will want to know where the rainwater from an extension or new building goes, and a soakaway is the first option they’ll look for.

Front gardens are a common one. Since 2008, paving over more than 5 square metres of a front garden in England with a surface that doesn’t let water through needs planning permission, unless the water is directed to a lawn, border or soakaway on your property.

Older rubble soakaways also reach the end of their life. Once they’re full of silt, the only real fix is a new one.

You might need a soakaway if you have

  • An extension, garage or outbuilding going up
  • A new or replaced driveway or patio
  • Water pooling on the lawn after rain
  • Downpipes that just spill onto the ground
  • An old soakaway that’s silted up and overflowing
Get a free quote

Compared

Crate soakaway or rubble soakaway?

Crate soakawayRubble soakaway
StorageAround 95% empty space, so a smaller hole holds moreAround 30% empty space between the stones
SiltWrapped in membrane, with a silt trap in frontFills with silt and soil over time
MaintenanceCan be inspected and jetted through an access pointUsually can’t be cleaned once it’s blocked
LifeMany decades if kept clear of siltOften fails within a few decades
DesignSized to the infiltration rate and rainfall dataOften dug by guesswork

Cost

What affects the cost of a soakaway?

We quote after a survey and a percolation test. These are the main things that set the price.

FactorWhy it matters
Area being drainedThe bigger the roof or paved area, the more storage the soakaway needs.
How fast your ground drainsSlow-draining ground, like clay, needs a bigger soakaway or a different solution.
Access and diggingRoom for a digger, how far spoil has to go and what’s in the way.
PipeworkHow far the soakaway is from the downpipes or drains, and any new gullies or channels.
ReinstatementPutting back lawn is cheaper than relaying paving or a drive.

Why Clearmasters

Why choose Clearmasters?

We don’t just install soakaways, we jet and desilt them too, so we know what makes one last. Every soakaway we build is sized from a proper test, and easy to maintain.

Ask us a question

We survey before we dig

Levels, ground conditions, buried services and where the water can go, checked before we quote.

Done to the rules

Designed and built to the Building Regulations, British Standards and the manufacturer’s instructions.

We look after it afterwards

We empty, jet, survey and service what we install, so you have one firm for the life of the system.

Built to be maintained

A silt trap and access point, so it can be checked and jetted in years to come.

What our customers say

Questions answered

Soakaway FAQs

How big does my soakaway need to be?

It depends on the area it drains, how fast your ground drains and the local rainfall. We size it from a percolation test, usually using the BRE Digest 365 method.

How far from my house does a soakaway need to be?

The Building Regulations say soakaways generally shouldn’t be within 5 metres of a building or road, or in unstable ground, so water doesn’t undermine the foundations.

What if my soil is clay?

Clay drains slowly, so a soakaway may need to be much larger, or may not be suitable at all. Then the options include a storage tank with a controlled outflow to a watercourse or sewer. The test will show which.

Can a soakaway take sewage or treatment plant water?

No. Soakaways are for rainwater. Effluent from a septic tank or treatment plant needs a properly designed drainage field.

Do I need planning permission for a soakaway?

Not usually for a domestic soakaway, but the drainage for new buildings and extensions needs Building Regulations approval, and larger or commercial systems may need planning consent.

How long does a soakaway last?

A well-designed crate soakaway with a silt trap can last for many decades. Keeping gutters, gullies and the silt trap clear makes the biggest difference.

What are the signs of a failing soakaway?

Water backing up in gullies or downpipes, pooling over the soakaway and slow drainage after rain. Sometimes jetting and desilting brings it back; if not, it needs replacing.

Got a different question? Call 03333 233566 or send us a message.

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